Rano sme sa zobudili v Hanoii o 4.30, vysli sme z vlaku, ze si ideme kupit listky, ale stanica bola zavreta, takze sme museli este cakat… pred stanicou bolo plno taxikov a moto taxikov ….kazdy sa nas pytal, ci chceme taxi … my, ze nie, ze ideme na stanicu – proste strasne nieco, kazdu minutu aspon 2 x sme museli odpovedat, ze nemame zaujem, stale niekto otravoval …o 5 hodine otvorili stanicu, tak sme si sli kupit listky na 5.55 do Ninh Binh. Ked sme mali listky, ja som sa isiel najest a Sasa sedela v cakarni, kde Vietnamci pozerali tv …
Vlak z Hanoia do Ninh Binh bol poloprazdny, takze sme mali dost miesta, trochu sme este pospali…kedze sme nevedeli, kde vystupit, kedze nemaju znacene stanice, tak sme sa za 2 hodiny opytali, kedy bude nasa zastavka … nastastie sprievodkyna vedela anglicky ….pred nasou zastavkou prisiel sprievodca a ukazal nam, kade mame ist. Ja som sa postavil a pomaly siel, Sase to trochu trvalo, ako som vystupoval, tak som si vsimol skupinku asi 50 tich Vietnamcom beziacich nasim smerom … ked som vystupil, videl som, ze vsetci sa zacali tlacit do jedinych dveri vo vlaku, a to do tych, ktorymi som vystupil … Sasa bola este vo vlaku a ti ju zacali tlacit dnu hlava nehlava. Potom prisiel sprievodca a zacal ich nadvihovat a ukladat naspat na peron a vysvetloval im, ze ludia este nevystupili, ze nech pockaju, ale oni asi nerozumeli a tlacili sa dnu … ja som stal na perone a smial sa, ze co to ma znamenat, vsetky dvere na vlaku prazdne, len zrovna do tych, ktorymi sme vystupovali, sa tlacilo asi 50 Vietnamcov – proste ukazka ako z grotesky …ked sprievodca urobili cestu, tak Sasa vystupila este s nejakymi dvomi ludmi a potom sa ta grupa tlacila dnu … Sasa vysla uplne v soku, ze co to malo znamenat a ja som sa smial ….
V Ninh Binh sme zacali hladat hotel, ale bolo to trochu problematicke, lebo zvacsa bolo vsade plno … po 1,5 hodine sme nasli hotel a ubytovali sa …trochu sme si oddychli a pozicali sme si motorku. Isli sa pozriet na Trang An ….ked sme prisli na Trang An, bolo tam vcelku vela autobusov s Vietnamcami. Po chvili sme zistili, ze sme tam boli jedini bieli, takze sme tam boli asi vacsia atrakcia ako cely Trang An, ludia sa tam chceli s nami fotit ako s nejakymi celebritami a otacali krky za nami. Trang An je uzemie, kde sa nachadza vela vysokych skal a jaskyn, cez ktore sa chodi lodkami – proste nadhera … sadli sme si do lodky dopredu a ako sme isli vsetci nas zdravili “Hello” a mavali nam a fotili si nas ako atrakciu ….bol to nezvyk, ale verim tomu, ze slovenske celebrity nemaju tolko pozornosti u ludi ako sme mali my tam… cesta lodkou trvala 3 hodiny takze sme sa citili unaveni, tak sme sli na hotel a potom sa najest do mesta …
2. den v Ninh Binh sme sa museli prestahovat do druheho hotela, takze sme si preniesli veci a na obed sme si zobrali motorku a sli sa pozriet na Hoa Lu, co bolo hlavne mesto vietnamskeho kralovstva v 11. storoci … po chvilke bludenia sme to nasli, na mieste bolo zase vela autobusov s Vietnamcami (ziadna financna kriza tu nie je), hned na parkovisku chlapik napisal na kusok papierika nieco, co sa nedalo citat a povedal, ze sa plati 5000 vnd parkovne … tak sme sa isli pozriet, vsade plno Vietnamcov, ziadny turista a tu sme boli este vacsia atrakcia ako den predtym ….vsetci na nas pozerali, hlavy si otacali, chceli sa fotit, kyvali nam …. Normalne som si zacal zvykat na to, ze sa na mna kazdy pozera ….. pozreli sme si budovy a chramy a isli sa pozriet na kopec s peknym vyhladom na okolie …..na parkovisku si od nas straznik pytal ten listok a ja som ho nevedel najst …tak som povedal, ze ho nemam, ze mu dam 5000 vnd a ze ideme. On nic nechcel a tvaril sa vazne, ze to je problem, ze nemam listok …..tak som este poprevracal vrecka a nakoniec som ho nasiel tak som mu dal listok s 5000 vnd. Listok hned roztrhal a 5000 si schoval do vrecka a s usmevom sme sa rozlucili ….Dalej sme sa chceli ist pozriet na Kengh Ha – plavajucu dedinu …vybrali sme sa skratkou po takych mensich cestach, kde sme stretavali vidiecanov, ktori nam mavali, zdravili nas a usmievali sa – proste to bol pravy Vietnam, nikto nic nechcel predavat, nikto nic neponukal … ryzove polia, dobytok, rybarske siete, lodky a klud a pokoj od motoriek a trub nakladnych aut ….cestou sme stretli mladych zvazakov, ktori isli v bielych koseliach na bicykloch, bolo ich asi 300 …ked sme ich videli na caste, nevedeli sme identifikovat, kto a co to je. Ja som myslel, ze to je nejaky vojensky pochod alebo nieco podobne … ako sme sa priblizili, hned nas zacali zdravit a pozerat na nas …..ked sme dorazili do Kengh Ha, bolo uz neskoro a nemali sme cas ist sa pozriet na plavajuce trhy tak sme sa vybrali do Ninh Binh …cesty boli dost prasne, takze aj viditelnost bola zla … na hlavnej ceste do Ninh Binh sa vytvorila dopravna zapcha autobusov, ktore sa vracali z vyletov, dlha asi 8 km nasim smerom. Take nieco som este nevidel … na 2 prudovej caste sa vytvorili 2 pruhy iduce nasim smerom a este popri kraji motorky a v stredovom pruhu motorky. Oproti isiel jeden pruh aut a motoriek … miestami sa to vymenilo opacne … vsade chaos, kazdy sa tlacil dopredu, autobusom vyvierala voda z chladicov, ludia vyskakovali z autobusov od nervozity a motorkari sa tlacili z kazdej strany dopredu. Mne nic ine nezostavalo, iba sa tlacit ako domaci …bolo tam strasne prasno, viditelnost velmi slaba, vsetci mali ruska na ustach….riadil to akoze jeden policajt, ale ten nic nezvladal…kluckoval som medzi autami, autobusmi, motorkarmi a cyklistami ….zrazu nam cestu zablokoval autobus, takze sa nedalo prejst, ja som zavahal asi 0.5 sec a nevbehol som pred autobus, co domaci hned videli a uz boli v otvore na 1 motorku asi 10ti, ale pretlacil som sa aj ja …bolo tam vela riskantnych situaci a taktiez dost nebezpecnych….nakoniec sme to zvladli vsetko super, ale taku dopravu som nezazil nikde na svete – ani v Grecku, ani v Egypte. Myslim, ze toto je jedna z najhorsich na svete …vecer sme sa pozreli do zrkadla – boli sme celi cierni od prachu a spiny, proste katastrofa … vecer som padol unaveny do postele a zaspal od unavy ..
3. den sme dali relax doobeda a poobede sme sa sli pozriet na katolicky kostol Phat Diem asi 30 km od Ninh Binh …isli sme tam lokalnym autobusom, takze to bola tiez dobra skusenost. Na stanici nam hned vsetci ponukali zase taxi a rozne potraviny … neodolal som bagete a fakt bola vynikajuca, takze sme kupili este jednu. Opytali sme sa sofera, kedy odchadza, povedal, ze za 30 minut …tak sme sa sli prejst ..ako sme prisli k autobusu, chceli sme si sadnut dnu, no ale ako sme videli 3 cestujucich, ako si v pohode sedeli v buse a fajcili, tak sme radsej zostali vonku…ako sa bus zacal plnit, tak sme si nasli miesto a cakali na odchod ..ako sa autobus pohol, vzduch sa vycistil, bolo vcelku zaujmave sledovat ludi v buse a sledovat okolie a prirodu, to bol ozajstny vidiek Vietnamu (so svojimi kladmi aj zapormi), nie to, co organizuju rozne agentury … kostol bol pekny, bolo to skor nejake biskupstvo z 18teho storocia, co tu zalozili este Francuzi ….bolo to fascinujuce sledovat azijske struktury domov s krestanskym krizom ….cestou naspat sme isli tym istym busom …vecer som sa snazil vybrat nejaku hotovost z bankomatov, ale vsetky boli vibrate, proste ani v jednom bankomate neboli peniaze …esteze Sasa mala vacsiu hotovost na vyplatenie hotela ….. vecer, ako som sa isiel pozriet po bankomatoch, som zazil dost zaujmavu chvilku, ked som sa pytal Vietnamca, ze kde je bankomat sposobom, ze som mu ukazoval kartu a pouzival normalny body language, nerozumel, ani nevedel, co mam v ruke …potom som isiel po chodniku dalej, tam predo mnou zeny vysypali smetne kose k obrubnikom, na ceste bola dopravna zapcha, dalej na krizovatke stalo 8 !!!!! policajtov (nie mladych policajtov) a snazili sa tam nieco riesit, ale zablokovali cele mesto, co malo za nasledok to, ze vsetky auta trubili a tlacili sa dopredu, motorkari vyskakali na chodniky a jazdili akokolvek – krizom krazom …ako som sa vracal k hotelu, pockal som na zelenu, to, ze som musel uskocit, je normalne, aby ma nezrazili, ale vrchol bol, ked autobus, ktory bol v pravom pruhu a mal cakat na zelenu, tna cervenu strhol volant dolava a ako som bol na prechode, skoro ma zrazil, ked sa otacal o 180 stupnov cez krizovatku na cervenu. Vsetci trubili .V noci sme sadli na sleeper bus do Hue a budeme 12 hodin cestovat …
Verim ze ti cyklotypci ci dali dtosaotk noveho optimizmu, aby si nemusel rano stavat s pocitom, ze sa ti to len zda, a ze sa to da naozaj zvladnut ;-). Mas to ovela lahsie, bez manzelky a babetka na ceste; je to predsa trocha menej stresu 😉 Tesim sa kedy opat vyrazim na nieco vacsie, tohto roku to uz asi nebude. Pomaly to tu v praci uzatvaram, a planujem svoj presun do UK. Naozaj sa nam tu zda, ze Ti to ide rychlo, lebo ten cas v nasej spolocnosti tak rychlo plynie. To je ta relativita, pohybujucim sa telesam cas plynie pomalsie. 😉
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